20 Flowers You Should Plant in November for Early Spring Color

By November, most gardens look like they’ve gone to sleep—but beneath the surface, there’s still a quiet opportunity waiting. The soil, though cool, isn’t frozen yet. It’s the perfect moment to plant bulbs and hardy blooms that need winter’s chill to spark spring’s earliest color.

If you’ve been wondering what flowers to plant in November before the ground hardens, you’re in the right place. As a gardener who’s spent years coaxing life out of late-season beds, I can tell you this: November planting isn’t about rushing—it’s about planning.

20 Best Flowers to Plant in November to Keep Your Garden Alive Through Winter:

1. Tulip (Tulipa spp.)

Tulips are the crown jewels of spring. November planting gives them just enough cold to form sturdy roots without sprouting too soon. In most climates, tulip bulbs need 12–14 weeks of cold dormancy, which means planting in November sets them up perfectly for that early-spring debut.

Choose firm, unblemished bulbs and plant them 6–8 inches deep in full sun with well-drained soil—wet feet are a tulip’s worst enemy. For continuous color, mix early, mid, and late-blooming varieties in groups of 10–20.

Expert Tip: If you garden in a warm region (Zones 8–10), prechill bulbs for 10–12 weeks in a breathable paper bag in the refrigerator—keep them away from fruit that releases ethylene gas.

Best for: Spring beds, borders, and cut flowers
Zones: 3–8
Bloom Time: Mid to late spring
Spacing: 4–6 in
Sun: Full sun
Water: Lightly after planting
Fertilizer: Use a low-nitrogen bulb fertilizer when shoots appear

2. Daffodil (Narcissus spp.)

If deer or squirrels have ever raided your tulip beds, daffodils are your best defense. Their bulbs contain natural toxins that repel pests but not pollinators. November planting allows roots to develop before deep freezes, ensuring strong stems and heavy blooms.

Plant bulbs 6 inches deep and 4–6 inches apart in groups of 7–11 for a natural, meadow-like look. Daffodils thrive in well-drained, moderately fertile soil and can bloom for decades with minimal care.

Expert Tip: After blooms fade in spring, let the foliage yellow naturally—it feeds the bulb for next year’s display.

Best for: Naturalizing and pest-free blooms
Zones: 3–9
Bloom Time: Early to mid spring
Spacing: 4–6 in
Sun: Full sun or light shade
Water: Moderate; avoid soggy soil
Fertilizer: Top-dress with compost after flowering

Also Read: Apartment Gardening Ideas – Grow Herbs, Vegetables, Fruits, and Flowers

3. Crocus (Crocus spp.)

For many gardeners, crocuses are the first true sign of spring—tiny cups of purple, gold, or white rising through thawing soil. Planting them in November allows their corms to anchor before the frost, so they can bloom as soon as the ground begins to warm.

Plant 2–3 inches deep and just as wide apart in tight clusters of 25–50 for a natural carpet of color. Crocuses love full sun and quick-draining soil, making them perfect for rock gardens, lawn borders, and under deciduous trees.

Expert Tip: Mulch lightly with shredded leaves after planting to keep soil temperatures stable and prevent early sprouting during mild winters.

Best for: Early spring color, lawn naturalizing
Zones: 3–8
Bloom Time: Late winter to early spring
Spacing: 2–3 in
Sun: Full sun
Water: Minimal; keep slightly moist
Fertilizer: Apply bulb fertilizer when foliage emerges

4. Grape Hyacinth (Muscari spp.)

If you want easy, no-fuss blooms that multiply over time, grape hyacinths are a must. Their cobalt-blue clusters pair beautifully with daffodils and tulips, filling the gap between early and mid-spring blooms.

November planting ensures the bulbs get the cold period they crave. Set them 3–4 inches deep and about 3 inches apart in full sun or light shade. Once planted, Muscari needs little attention beyond an occasional top-dressing of compost each fall.

Expert Tip: For a long-lasting layered display, plant grape hyacinths over tulips in pots—this “lasagna planting” technique gives you staggered bloom times from the same container.

Best for: Edging, naturalizing, layered containers
Zones: 4–9
Bloom Time: Early to mid spring
Spacing: 3 in
Sun: Full sun to partial shade
Water: Light but regular moisture
Fertilizer: Compost or balanced feed in early spring

5. Hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis)

If fragrance ranks high on your garden wish list, hyacinths should top your November planting plan. Their tight spikes of perfumed flowers are strongest when bulbs are planted into cool soil, allowing them to establish roots without pushing growth too early.

Set bulbs 4–6 inches deep and 4 inches apart in full sun and well-drained, neutral soil. In heavy clay, use raised beds or add sand for drainage. Hyacinths also perform beautifully in pots, especially near patios or entryways where their scent can be enjoyed up close.

Expert Tip: The bulbs can irritate skin—wear gloves while planting and avoid overwatering during winter dormancy.

Best for: Fragrant displays, containers, small beds
Zones: 4–8
Bloom Time: Mid spring
Spacing: 4–6 in
Sun: Full sun
Water: Light moisture only
Fertilizer: Use bulb fertilizer when shoots emerge

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6. Allium (Allium spp.)

Ornamental alliums offer structural beauty with their globe-shaped flower heads that float above spring foliage. They’re among the most dependable flowers to plant in November, since their bulbs thrive in cool soil but dislike wet feet.

Plant bulbs twice as deep as their diameter (usually 6–8 inches) in full sun and gritty soil. They pair well with late tulips, providing continuity as spring transitions to early summer.

Expert Tip: Large alliums like ‘Globemaster’ need extra spacing—about 8–10 inches apart—to show off their form and prevent crowding.

Best for: Pollinator gardens, structure, and cutting
Zones: 4–8
Bloom Time: Late spring to early summer
Spacing: 6–10 in
Sun: Full sun
Water: Moderate; dry between waterings
Fertilizer: Balanced spring feed

7. Snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis)

If you crave blooms while snow still lingers, snowdrops are unbeatable. November planting helps bulbs root firmly before deep frost, ensuring a resilient start. These graceful white nodding flowers love humus-rich, moist soil under deciduous trees where sunlight still reaches them in early spring.

Plant 3 inches deep and 3 inches apart, then leave them undisturbed to form colonies over time. Once established, they multiply naturally and can thrive for decades.

Expert Tip: Always plant freshly bought bulbs as soon as possible—snowdrops dry out quickly and lose vitality if stored too long.

Best for: Woodland gardens and early bloom
Zones: 3–8
Bloom Time: Late winter to early spring
Spacing: 3 in
Sun: Part shade (sun before leaf-out)
Water: Moderate, evenly moist
Fertilizer: Compost or leaf mold annually

8. Glory-of-the-Snow (Chionodoxa luciliae)

Few flowers announce spring more cheerfully than Glory-of-the-Snow. Their blue, star-like petals open even through melting snow. November planting gives bulbs enough time to develop roots before hard freezes, setting the stage for one of the earliest floral displays of the year.

Plant bulbs 2–3 inches deep and 3 inches apart in sunny beds or open woodland borders. They look stunning when planted around stepping stones or mixed with crocuses and early daffodils.

Expert Tip: To encourage naturalizing, leave foliage intact after flowering until it yellows completely—this feeds the bulbs for next season.

Best for: Early color in lawns or woodland edges
Zones: 3–8
Bloom Time: Very early spring
Spacing: 3 in
Sun: Full sun to light shade
Water: Light, avoid soggy soil
Fertilizer: Leaf mulch or compost each fall

9. Winter Aconite (Eranthis hyemalis)

Winter aconites are the bold yellow punctuation marks of late winter. Their buttercup-like blooms open before crocuses, often through snow crust. Planting them in November allows the small tubers to hydrate and root well ahead of deep cold.

Soak tubers in lukewarm water for an hour before planting. Set them 2–3 inches deep and 3 inches apart beneath shrubs or deciduous trees. They thrive in moist, humus-rich soil that doesn’t dry out completely in summer.

Expert Tip: Once established, aconites will self-seed gently—mark their location so you don’t accidentally disturb them during fall cleanup.

Best for: Early color under shrubs
Zones: 3–7
Bloom Time: Late winter
Spacing: 3 in
Sun: Part shade
Water: Moderate moisture
Fertilizer: Light compost in autumn

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10. Siberian Squill (Scilla siberica)

Siberian squill floods gardens with cobalt-blue bells in early spring and multiplies naturally year after year. November planting suits its need for long, cold dormancy. Its narrow foliage dies back neatly after blooming, making it ideal under trees or between taller perennials.

Plant bulbs 3 inches deep and 3 inches apart in well-drained soil. For the best color, mass them in groups of 25 or more.

Expert Tip: Combine with yellow daffodils or white crocuses for a layered color contrast as snow melts.

Best for: Naturalizing, woodland edges
Zones: 2–8
Bloom Time: Early spring
Spacing: 3 in
Sun: Full sun to part shade
Water: Low once established
Fertilizer: Light spring feed

11. Reticulated Iris (Iris reticulata)

Reticulated iris delivers a splash of intense purple and blue when the rest of the garden is still asleep. It’s one of the best flowers to grow in November because these small bulbs crave cold dormancy and dry summer soil. Plant them 3–4 inches deep and 3–4 inches apart in a spot with full sun and excellent drainage—think rock gardens, south-facing slopes, or raised beds.

Their blooms last only a couple of weeks, but they make up for it with sheer brilliance and a delightful fragrance. Once foliage yellows, stop watering; too much summer moisture causes bulb rot.

Expert Tip: For naturalizing, leave the bulbs undisturbed. They’ll multiply and form clusters that bloom earlier each year.

Best for: Rock gardens and early-season accents
Zones: 5–9
Bloom Time: Late winter to early spring
Spacing: 3–4 in
Sun: Full sun
Water: Low; keep soil dry in summer
Fertilizer: Light bulb food after flowering

12. Anemone (Anemone blanda)

When gardeners ask what flowers to plant in November for soft color carpets, I often recommend Grecian windflowers (Anemone blanda). Their daisy-like blooms open in shades of blue, pink, and white, perfect for brightening shady corners beneath shrubs or deciduous trees.

Soak corms in lukewarm water for three hours before planting. Bury them 2–3 inches deep and 3–4 inches apart in light, humus-rich soil. November planting gives them the time they need to root before winter sets in.

Expert Tip: For natural drifts, toss the corms gently over loosened soil and plant them where they land. This creates a natural, meadow-like effect.

Best for: Woodland edges and groundcover
Zones: 4–8
Bloom Time: Late winter to early spring
Spacing: 3–4 in
Sun: Partial shade
Water: Moderate; evenly moist soil
Fertilizer: Compost mulch in fall

13. Ranunculus (Ranunculus asiaticus)

For lush, rose-like petals in radiant colors, ranunculus is a top choice among November flowers to plant. These cold-hardy tubers love the mild temperatures of late fall and early winter, especially in Zones 8–10. In colder areas, you can plant them in containers and overwinter in a sheltered space.

Soak the claw-shaped tubers for 3–4 hours before planting, then place them 2 inches deep and 6–8 inches apart with claws facing down. Use sandy soil that drains quickly. Ranunculus will produce strong stems perfect for cutting gardens.

Expert Tip: To extend blooming, stagger plantings every two weeks through November. This ensures waves of color through late spring.

Best for: Cut flowers and container displays
Zones: 8–10 (fall-planted); colder zones start indoors
Bloom Time: Late spring
Spacing: 6–8 in
Sun: Full sun
Water: Keep lightly moist, not soggy
Fertilizer: Balanced liquid feed during active growth

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14. Pansy (Viola × wittrockiana)

Pansies are the workhorses of the cool garden season. Their cheerful, velvety blooms can survive light frost, making them one of the most dependable flowers to grow in November. In mild climates, they bloom straight through winter; in colder ones, they rest and revive in early spring.

Plant transplants at soil level, 8–10 inches apart, in fertile, well-drained soil. Choose winter-hardy varieties labeled “cool wave” or “matrix” for stronger overwintering. Keep them watered but not waterlogged, especially in pots.

Expert Tip: Pinch off spent blooms weekly to keep the plants branching and blooming continuously.

Best for: Window boxes, borders, and winter color
Zones: 6–9 (hardy types)
Bloom Time: Fall through spring
Spacing: 8–10 in
Sun: Full sun to light shade
Water: Moderate; never soggy
Fertilizer: Light feed every few weeks in spring

15. Viola (Viola spp.)

Smaller and more cold-tolerant than pansies, violas are the unsung heroes of cool-season planting. Their petite blooms thrive in fluctuating temperatures, making them a staple when deciding what flowers to grow in November.

Plant them 6–8 inches apart in rich, well-drained soil. They handle both full sun and partial shade, and their trailing varieties look stunning in hanging baskets. Violas often self-seed, returning naturally each year if you leave a few blooms to mature.

Expert Tip: Trim the plants lightly in late winter to encourage bushier, longer-lasting growth through spring.

Best for: Hanging baskets and cool-season color
Zones: 5–9
Bloom Time: Fall through spring
Spacing: 6–8 in
Sun: Full sun to part sun
Water: Keep evenly moist
Fertilizer: Monthly half-strength feed

16. English Daisy (Bellis perennis)

If you’ve ever admired quaint English gardens, chances are you’ve seen Bellis perennis. This charming daisy forms low rosettes of leaves topped with button-like blooms in shades of pink, white, and red. It’s among the most reliable flowers to plant in November because it roots easily in cool weather and bursts into bloom as soon as days lengthen.

Plant seedlings 6–8 inches apart in moist, well-drained soil. They prefer full sun in cooler climates and partial shade where winters are mild.

Expert Tip: Combine English daisies with violas for a soft, old-fashioned color palette that thrives from late winter through spring.

Best for: Cottage gardens and pathways
Zones: 4–8
Bloom Time: Early to mid-spring
Spacing: 6–8 in
Sun: Full sun to part shade
Water: Moderate, consistent moisture
Fertilizer: Compost or mild organic feed

17. Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima)

Sweet alyssum produces clouds of honey-scented flowers that spill gracefully over pots, borders, and rock edges. It’s one of the easiest flowers to plant in November because it germinates in cool soil and tolerates mild frost.

Sow seeds directly on the surface or transplant seedlings 6–8 inches apart. Alyssum blooms continuously in cool weather and only needs shearing if it becomes leggy. It pairs beautifully with bulbs like tulips or daffodils, filling gaps between their leaves.

Expert Tip: In mild climates, alyssum can bloom through winter—trim lightly in January to refresh growth before spring.

Best for: Fragrance and low edging
Zones: 5–9
Bloom Time: Fall to late spring
Spacing: 6–8 in
Sun: Full sun to part sun
Water: Moderate, well-drained soil
Fertilizer: Occasional liquid feed in pots

18. Forget-Me-Not (Myosotis sylvatica)

These classic blue beauties are perfect for late fall planting because they overwinter easily as rosettes, then burst into flower in mid-spring. Among all flowers to grow in November, forget-me-nots are exceptional for filling shady beds and pairing with bulbs.

Transplant seedlings or thinly scatter seed, covering them with a light layer of soil. They prefer moist, humus-rich soil and partial shade. Once established, they self-seed gently, forming perennial drifts of blue.

Expert Tip: Combine forget-me-nots with yellow daffodils for a timeless spring contrast that returns year after year.

Best for: Shady beds and bulb companions
Zones: 3–8
Bloom Time: Mid-spring
Spacing: 8–10 in
Sun: Partial shade
Water: Moderate, consistent moisture
Fertilizer: Annual compost dressing

19. Lenten Rose (Helleborus orientalis)

Hellebores are one of the few perennials that bloom while snow still lingers. Their leathery evergreen leaves protect flower buds from frost, making them a superb choice for November flower planting. Plant nursery starts at soil level in partial shade with rich, organic soil that drains well.

They prefer sheltered spots, such as the north side of a house or under deciduous trees, and can live for decades with minimal care.

Expert Tip: Avoid covering the crown with mulch—it can encourage rot. Instead, topdress around the plant with leaf mold for insulation.

Best for: Shade gardens and winter blooms
Zones: 4–9
Bloom Time: Late winter to spring
Spacing: 18 in
Sun: Part to full shade
Water: Moderate, evenly moist
Fertilizer: Annual compost; avoid heavy nitrogen

20. Chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum × morifolium)

When you think of fall color, mums are unmatched. But planting them in early November can set up perennial success for next year. Choose hardy garden varieties—not florist types—and plant them 18–24 inches apart in full sun.

Their roots establish quickly in cool soil and will overwinter with a layer of mulch once frost arrives. In spring, pinch back new shoots to encourage a bushier, more floriferous shape.

Expert Tip: In Zones 6 and colder, plant mums in well-drained raised beds to prevent crown rot during freeze-thaw cycles.

Best for: Fall color, cut flowers, and borders
Zones: 5–9 (hardy types)
Bloom Time: Fall
Spacing: 18–24 in
Sun: Full sun
Water: Moderate; avoid soggy crowns
Fertilizer: Apply balanced fertilizer in spring

Caring for November-Planted Flowers Through Winter

Now that your bulbs and cool-weather flowers are tucked into the soil, November’s real work is done—but your plants still depend on a few smart aftercare steps to survive winter and thrive in spring. Whether you’ve chosen tulips, pansies, or hellebores, these methods will keep your garden safe until the thaw.

1. Water Wisely

After planting, water deeply once to help settle the soil. From there, water only if the season turns unusually dry. Cold soil holds moisture longer, and soggy conditions can cause bulb rot. For containers, check occasionally—pots dry out faster than ground beds.

2. Mulch at the Right Time

Once the soil has cooled but not frozen, spread 2–3 inches of shredded leaves or clean straw over your beds. This blanket keeps soil temperatures stable and protects roots from frost heaving. Avoid piling mulch directly on the crowns of pansies, hellebores, or mums; give them breathing space.

3. Keep Drainage in Check

November often brings heavy rain. If water puddles around your bulbs, loosen the top layer with a fork to aerate and prevent compaction. In raised beds or containers, make sure excess water drains freely.

4. Fertilizing in Late Fall and Spring

You don’t need fertilizer right after planting—most bulbs store enough energy to bloom. Save feeding for early spring when shoots emerge. Use a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer or a light topdressing of compost to boost root development and flower strength.

5. Pest Protection

Squirrels and voles love digging up tulip and crocus bulbs. To prevent this, lay a sheet of half-inch wire mesh (hardware cloth) over your planted bed, then cover it with mulch. For container gardens, sprinkle crushed eggshells or gravel over the surface as a deterrent.

Expert Tip: Mark where you’ve planted your bulbs before winter sets in. It saves time come spring—and helps you avoid accidentally digging them up while prepping other beds.

Quick Table: Flowers to Grow in November

Flower	Planting Depth	Sun	Bloom Time	Best Use
Tulip	6–8 in	Full sun	Mid–late spring	Beds, borders, containers
Daffodil	6 in	Sun/part shade	Early–mid spring	Naturalizing, pest-resistant
Crocus	2–3 in	Full sun	Late winter–early spring	Lawns, rock gardens
Grape Hyacinth	3–4 in	Sun/part shade	Early spring	Edging, naturalizing
Hyacinth	4–6 in	Full sun	Mid spring	Containers, fragrance
Allium	6–8 in	Full sun	Late spring	Structure, pollinators
Snowdrop	3 in	Part shade	Late winter	Woodland gardens
Glory-of-the-Snow	2–3 in	Sun/part shade	Early spring	Lawns, under trees
Winter Aconite	2–3 in	Part shade	Late winter	Shrub borders
Siberian Squill	3 in	Sun/part shade	Early spring	Naturalizing
Reticulated Iris	3–4 in	Full sun	Late winter	Rock gardens
Anemone	2–3 in	Part shade	Late winter	Woodland edges
Ranunculus	2 in	Full sun	Late spring	Cutting gardens
Pansy	Surface	Sun/part shade	Fall–spring	Containers, beds
Viola	Surface	Sun/part shade	Fall–spring	Hanging baskets
English Daisy	Surface	Sun/part shade	Early–mid spring	Edging, cottage gardens
Sweet Alyssum	Surface	Full sun	Fall–spring	Fragrant borders
Forget-Me-Not	1/4 in	Part shade	Mid spring	Bulb companions
Lenten Rose	Surface	Shade	Late winter	Shade gardens
Chrysanthemum	Surface	Full sun	Fall	Borders, pots

Must Read: Gorgeous Fall Flowers You Can Plant in Pots for Instant Autumn Color

FAQs About Flowers to Plant in November

Can I still plant bulbs after the first frost?

Yes. As long as the ground isn’t frozen solid, you can still plant most bulbs in November. Cold soil encourages root growth without triggering premature sprouting.

What are the best flowers to grow in November for beginners?

Start with daffodils, crocuses, pansies, and grape hyacinths. They’re forgiving, low-maintenance, and bloom reliably year after year.

How late is too late to plant bulbs?

If you can still dig, it’s not too late. Generally, bulbs can be planted until soil temperatures drop below 40°F. After that, growth slows dramatically.

Should I fertilize my bulbs right after planting?

No immediate fertilizer is needed. Wait until early spring to feed them—fertilizing too soon can push top growth instead of root establishment.

Which flowers to plant in November work well in containers?

Tulips, daffodils, crocuses, pansies, and violas are excellent for pots. Use the “lasagna method”: larger bulbs at the bottom, smaller ones on top, with cool-season annuals at the surface.

How do I protect November plantings from heavy snow?

Once mulch is in place, leave it undisturbed. Snow acts as natural insulation. Avoid compacting snow directly over the planting area.

What’s the biggest mistake gardeners make in November?

Overwatering or planting in soggy soil. Most bulbs need air circulation and dislike standing water, which can cause rot during freeze-thaw cycles.

Will these flowers survive zone 5 winters?

Yes. Most bulbs listed—tulips, daffodils, crocuses, and hyacinths—thrive in Zones 3–8. For added protection, mulch after the first freeze to stabilize soil temperature.

Can I plant November flowers indoors?

Absolutely. Many bulbs can be forced indoors. Pot them up, refrigerate for 10–12 weeks, then move to warmth and light for indoor blooms.

What’s the benefit of planting flowers in November instead of spring?

Fall planting allows roots to establish before the growing season, leading to earlier, larger, and stronger blooms in spring. It also frees up your time for other garden tasks when spring arrives.

Also Read: When to Prune Roses and When It Is Too Late (With Pictures)

Grab your trowel, layer on that mulch, and trust the process. Come March, when those first green shoots break through the frost, you’ll know your November effort was worth every moment.

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